The following are basic sewing techniques as well as some good tips, listed alphabetically, continued from page 1.
Hem: How To Stitch Hems
A hem is a finished edge, such as the bottom of a pant leg or skirt. There are numerous methods for creating a hem. Whic is best for a project depends on several factors. Do you want the hem stitching to show? Straight or decorative stitches can be used for hem stitches that will show. Do you want a strong hem? Machine stitched hems will probably be stronger than a hand stitched hem. Machine stitched hems can show on the outside, or be invisible.
I will cover three methods for adding a hem your item. No matter which method you choose, always take careful measurements (a hem guage is very useful) and use an iron to firmly press under your hems before sewing if your fabric allows it.
Hem tape adds a nice finish, and is helpful when hand sewing a hem. The hem tape is sewn along the edge of the hem before ironing under the hem.
Use a hem guage to ensure your hem is accurate and straight.
Hand Sewn Hem
Hand sewing works very well, if you are good at hand sewing. If not, you will want to learn
how to machine hem. There are times, however, when hand sewing will work best, such as when you want a truly
invisible hem stitch. It takes a lot of practice with machine hemming to get an "ivisible" stitch.
For a nice, almost invisible hand sewn hem stitch, fold your hem under 1/4" and press with iron. Fold it under again to
the height you want for your hem (1/2", 1", 1/5" hem depending on what you are hemming and how large you want your hem
to be) and press with iron again. Thread your hand sewing needle and tie a knot in one end. Pull the needle and thread
through the fold of the hem, close to the folded edge, from the underside to the top. This way, the knot will be hidden under the hem.
Pull your needle through only a couple of threads from your garment, just above
the place your needle originally came up. If you take too many threads, your stitch will show on the outside. If you take
only one or two, your hem could break away later. Refer
to figure 1, below. Practice to get a good, strong stitch and the look you want on the outside.
Run the needle under the fold of the hem and come up through the fold again. Repeat this stitch around the hem. Your stitch
should not show much on the inside, and should be almost invisible on the outside.
figure 1
Use a thread that matches your garment. Be sure your needle is appropriate for the type of fabric you are using.
Top-Stitched Hem
Iron under the hem 1/4". Then iron under again to desired hem width and stitch the
hem in place. Topstitching is actually done on the outside of the garment. I prefer to stitch hems
from the wrong side, so I know I am stitching close to the edge of the hem. The hem stitch line will show on the outside of the garment.
Sewn on wrong side
right side
wrong side
Machine Invisible Hem Stitch
This one takes some practice, as stated above, but is very easy once you get the hang of it.
Fold under to the desired hem width. Set your machine to "hem stitch" (refer to your machine's manual). Then, bend back the edge of the hem, away from the garment.
Stitch along this edge, and with
every fourth stitch or so your needle will zig-zag over to catch the edge of the garment side. If it zig-zags too far
into the garment, it will show more. If it just barely catches it, it may break away.
Interfacing
Interfacing is used to give stability to the garment piece. It usually lines a facing (see "Facing" earlier in this chapter). I use it for tote bags, purses and other items that rerquire more body or stiffness. Interfacing gives body and weight to the piece, and can
stiffen the piece if a heavy weight is used (such as adding stiffness to a baseball cap bill). There are various weights and types of interfacing available.
Interfacing is fusible (iron-on) or sew-on. Which one you choose depends on your own preference and type of fabric it will be adhered to. Fusible
interfacing is very popular because it is quick and easy to use. We highly recommend it, if the fabric allows pressing with a hot iron. Follow
the directions that come with the interfacing.
Proper interfacing weight depends on the weight of your fabric, and your desired stiffness of the finished piece.
Use a light weight interfacing for lighter weight fabric, and a heavier weight for heavier weight
fabric, such as denim.
Check washing instructions. It would not make sense to use dry clean only interfacing with a washable fabric.
