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beginning sewing

Chapter Five: Page 2

SETTING UP YOUR SEWING MACHINE


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QUICK INDEX

Bobbin
Bobbin Winding
Differential Feed
Feed Dogs
Needle Choice
Presser Feet
Sewing Machine
Stitch Length/Width
Tension
Thread Choice
Threading Machine
Throat Plate
Walking Foot


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Feed dogs feed from the bottom only. When sewing through two layers of fabric, it is possible that one layer will be fed at a slightly different rate than the other layer. Although your two layers can be perfectly lined up when you start your stitching, by the time you are at the end of the stitching line, the layers can be "off" (one shorter than the other). This is VERY frustrating. Therefore, two different solutions have been developed.

If you are lucky, your machine will have differential feed. This can be engaged or not engaged depending on what you are sewing. My Pfaff quilting machine has differential feed and it is truly wonderful. Both layers of fabric are fed at the same rate.

If your machine does not have differential feed, you can accomplish the same thing by using a walking foot. It is a special foot that attaches to your machine. A sales person familiar with your type of machine can help you select the right foot for your machine.




Presser feet hold down the fabric and help guide it through. They also serve various special functions. Examples of special feet are the rolled hem foot, which causes the fabric to roll, and the applique foot, which has an opening in the back to allow the bulk of the satin stitch to pass through. Other special feet that are commonly used include the zipper foot and buttonhole foot. Knowing what types are available, and when to use them, can make all the difference in the quality of your work. These special feet also take a lot of the frustration out of sewing.

Find out what type of feet are available for your machine. Special sewing functions can be performed using other specialty feet such as: applique foot, bias binder, pintuck feet, felling foot, cording foot, special hemmers and many more.

presser feet From left to right: buttonhole foot, rolled hem foot, regular foot (allows for zig-zag), and zipper / edge foot (your zipper foot may look very different from the one shown).

Stitch Length and Width


Stitch length refers to how long each individual stitch is.

Regular   11 - 12 stitches per inch

Basting    6 stitches per inch (i.e. a longer stitch, so fewer per inch)

Gathering  6 - 8 stitches per inch

Generally, heavier fabrics work best with a longer stitch length, and finer fabrics are best with a shorter stitch length. Proper stitch length is important and is a first place to start if you do not like the look of your stitching. For example, a slightly puckered seam in the fine fabric could be caused from too long of a stitch length - the feed dogs are feeding too much fabric through each stitch, making a puckered look. To correct this, a shorter stitch length should be used (also check tension - more on this later).

Remember that the higher number of stitches per inch translates to a short, tighter stitch.

Stitch width refers to how wide the stitch is. A regular straight stitch has no width, but a zig-zag or decorative stitch can be set to any number of widths.

sewing machine stitches


Choice of Needle


There are many different sizes of needles available. Also, needles are either sharp, or ball point. Ball point needles are used when sewing knits and sharp needles are for other non-stretch fabrics (sharp needles can tear a knit).



Refer to the following table for a general idea, and the Refer to the Thread and Needle chart  for more detail.


Small Ball Point:    single knit or tricot

Heavy or Medium Ball Point:    double knit

Sharp Needles:    non stretch fabrics, such as calicos, muslin, percales, broadcloth, linen

Wedge Point    very heavy fabrics - has a tiny blade which cuts its way through the fabric


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baby patterns
Baby Patterns
coin purse
Coin Purse
quilt lessons
Quilt Lessons


Index & Table of Contents  Chapter One  Two   Three  Four  Five
  Six   Seven  Eight  Nine   Ten  Needle & Thread Chart


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