Feed dogs feed from the bottom only. When sewing through two layers of fabric, it is possible that one layer will be fed
at a slightly different rate than the other layer. Although your two layers can be perfectly lined up at the start of stitching, by the
end of the stitching line the layers can be "off" (one shorter than the other). This is VERY frustrating. Therefore, two different solutions have
been developed.
If you are lucky, your machine will have differential feed. This can be engaged or not engaged depending on what you are sewing. My Pfaff quilting machine
has differential feed and it is truly wonderful. Both layers of fabric are fed at the same rate.
If your machine does not have differential feed, you can accomplish the same thing by using a walking foot. It is a special
foot that attaches to your machine. A sales person familiar with your type of machine can help you select the right
foot for your machine.
Presser feet hold down the fabric and help guide it through. They also serve various special functions. Examples of special feet are
the rolled hem foot, which causes the fabric to roll, and the applique foot, which has an opening in the back to allow the bulk of the satin stitch to pass
through. Other special feet that are commonly used include the zipper foot and buttonhole foot. Knowing what types are available, and when to use them, can make
all the difference in the quality of your work. These special feet also take a lot of the frustration out of sewing.
Find out what type of feet are available for your machine. Special sewing functions can be performed using other specialty feet such as:
applique foot, bias binder, pintuck feet, felling foot, cording foot, special hemmers and many more.
From left to right: buttonhole foot, rolled hem foot, regular foot (allows for zig-zag), and zipper / edge foot (your zipper foot might look
very different from the one shown).
Stitch Length and Width
Stitch length refers to how long each individual stitch is.
Regular 11 - 12 stitches per inch
Basting 6 stitches per inch (a longer stitch means fewer stiches per inch)
Gathering 6 - 8 stitches per inch
Generally, heavier fabrics work best with a longer stitch length, and finer fabrics are best with a shorter
stitch length. Proper stitch length is important and is a first place to start if you do not like
the look of your stitching. For example, a slightly puckered seam in the fine fabric could be
caused from too long of a stitch length - the feed dogs are feeding too much
fabric through each stitch, making a puckered look. To correct this, a shorter stitch length should be used (also
check tension - more on this later).
Remember that the higher number of stitches per inch translates to a short, tighter stitch.
High number - short stitch; low number - long stitch.
Stitch width refers to how wide the stitch is; width is created by a back and forth movement of the needle as the feed dogs feed the fabric through. A regular straight stitch has no width,
but a zig-zag or decorative stitch can be set to any number of widths.
Choice of Needle
There are many different sizes of needles available. Also, needles are either sharp, or ball point.
Ball point needles are used when sewing knits and sharp needles are for other non-stretch fabrics (sharp
needles can tear a knit).
Refer to the following table for a general idea, and the Refer to the Thread and Needle chart for more detail.
Small Ball Point: single knit or tricot (stretch fabric)
Heavy or Medium Ball Point: double knit (stretch fabric)
Sharp Needles: woven, non-stretch fabrics, such as calicos, muslin, percales, broadcloth, linen
Wedge Point very heavy fabrics - has a tiny blade that cuts its way through the fabric
