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FREE Sewing Book: Sewing Lessons For Beginners
By Christina Sherrod for CraftAndFabricLinks.com
Chapter Five: Page 3
SETTING UP YOUR SEWING MACHINE
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QUICK INDEX
Tension refers to the force that is applied by the machine on your thread. You can also effect tension
by the amount of pull or push you apply to the fabric as you feed it through under the needle - you should
not apply force. Instead, just use your hands to guide the fabric through. Let the feed dogs actually feed
the fabric through.
There are two areas in which you can adjust tension. The upper thread (needle thread - coming from the spool) and the bobbin
thread each have tension.
Needle Thread Tension
This is the most likely place to find a problem. Generally the tension ranges from low to high in number,
with high being the tightest. Check your own machine's manual for setting your tension.
Bobbin Tension
Check your own manual on this, also. With some machines, a screw is present which controls the bobbin tension. Usually, the bobbin does
not need to be adjusted, and some machine do not even allow you to do this. In all of my time sewing, I have never adjusted bobbin tension.
Too little tension can cause weak seams, which can be pulled apart easily. Adjust to a higher tension.
Too much tension causes a seam that is too tight and causes your fabric to pucker. Adjust to a lower tension.
When both threads have an even amount of tension, a smooth, "balanced" stitch is produced. The needle and bobbin
threads are locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no
puckers.
See your machine instructions for information on threading your machine. Refer to the Thread and Needle chart
for information on choosing the proper thread. All purpose thread serves most fabric weights.
Denim would require a heavier weight thread and silks and finer fabrics require a lighter weight
thread. In choosing the color, the general rule is to choose one shade darker than your fabric, unless
you feel you can get a perfect match. For topstitching and decorative stitching, you can choose a contrasting color.
Machines vary as to how exactly they are threaded, but all have certain common features. The thread runs from the spool
holder, through a tension device and down through the needle. The tension device controls the tension on the thread. It consists of a
groove that the thread slides through. The mechanism for setting the tension may be a dial or buttons (computerized machines).
With the machine on the left, below, the thread runs from the spool to a hook at the top of the tension area, down the right
groove and up the left groove, over a little hook and down the left groove again, and on to the needle. The dial is turned to set the tension.
With the machine on the right below, the thread runs from the spool to a hook at the top of the tension area, down and up the left groove and down
the right groove to the needle.
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The thread runs from the tension device, down to the needle area. There are usually small grooves in the arm
that holds the needle, for the thread to pass through. This holds the thread close to the needle arm. The thread
then runs down to and through the eye of the needle. Refer to your machine manual for proper threading of your machine.
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For most machines, the thread must be taken out of the needle in order to wind the bobbin. There is normally a bobbin holder
on top of the machine. The thread runs from the spool through a sequence of hooks etc. that are specific to the type of machine and
on to the spool. The needle is disengaged when the bobbin is winding. This is done automatically (when the bobbin is in
position for winding) or manually, depending on the machine. After the bobbin is wound, the machine is re-threaded, the needle is engaged
and the bobbin is placed in its area under the throat plate. Refer to your machine's manual for instructions on winding the
bobbin.
Once the bobbin is in place and the machine is threaded, gently turn the wheel of the machine while holding the needle thread off to the side (it should go from the needle under the presser foot
and off to the side). This will bring
down the needle. The needle will pass down through the throat plate and the needle thread will catch the bobbin
thread and pull it up through the throat plate when it comes back up again.
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