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Pajama Pants Construction

Lesson 3: Sew Your New Pants

free pajama pants pattern Lesson 1: Create Pattern - Measure Method
Lesson 2: Create Pattern - Trace Method
Lesson 4: Add A Cuff

Time To Sew!

Quick and easy method for stitching up your new pants.
Lesson 1: Take measurements and draw a pattern based on measurements.
Lesson 2: Take an existing pair of pajama pants and turn them into a custom pattern.
Lesson 3: Sew your fabulous new pants!
Lesson 4: Add an adorable cuff to capri or full length pants.

Step by step, fully illustrated instructions.

make your own pajama pants pattern tell a friend

Lesson 3: Use Your New Pattern To Sew Fabulous Pants

Now that you have created your pattern (lessons 1 and 2), you can sew up fabulous, custom fit pants!

Lay the pattern on a hard surface to determine how much fabric you will need. If the fabric is directional, you might need more fabric. Otherwise, you can flip the pattern so that it uses minimum fabric. Fold the fabric right sides together, lengthwise, and cut through BOTH layers.

Pre-wash Fabric

Wash and dry fabric before using. Iron as needed. This pre-shrinks the fabric.

If you are making pajamas for children, be sure to follow safety guidelines regarding flammability. For more information, read my article: Children's Sleepwear: Fire Retardant Fabric.

NOTE: The straight, double-ended arrow represents straight of grain. The straight of grain contains no stretch, and runs the length of the fabric (perpendicular to selvages). In our example, there is stretch across the width of the fabric, and no stretch along its length. This means that the arrow must be exactly parallel to the edge (selvage) of the fabric. Draw an arrow on your pattern so that it is exactly perpendicular to the bottom leg hem edge. This ensures that the pattern is places correctly on the fabric. Measure the distance from the end of each arrow to the edge of the fabric to be sure your pattern piece is straight. Laid out correctly, your finished product will have some stretch across the seat (even non-stretch fabric has some give), and less stretch vertically. This is very important.

Pattern Lay-Out

pajama pattern layout

basic pajama

Stitch Center Front

Pin the front pieces together at the front center seam, keeping them right sides together. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, stitch the front pieces together at the center seam. Repeat with the back pieces.

stitch center seam

Stitch Outer Seams

Lay out your pajama back and pajama front. Pin the front to the back, right sides together, along the outer seam. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, stitch the front to the back at the outer seams.

stitch outside seam

Stitch Inseam

Pin the front to the back, right sides together, along the inseams. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, stitch the front to the back at the inseams. There are two methods for this. One is to start stitching at the center and stitch down one leg, then stitch down the other leg. The second method is to start at the bottom of one pant leg, stitch up to the center and then on down the other pant leg. Either one works, but if you are a beginner it might be better to use the first method.

stitch inseam

Hem Pant Leg

Skip this section if you are adding a cuff!

Serge or zig-zag around the bottom of each pant leg. Turn under each pant leg 1/4" and press. Turn under 1" again and press (or whatever measurement you allowed for your hem). Machine stitch around close to folded edge of hem. If you prefer, you can hand stitch the hem rather than machine stitch.

Create Wasitband

Serge or zig-zag stitch around the raw edge of the waist. Turn under 1/4" and press. Turn under 1" and press. On the BACK of the pants, place two pins approximately 1.5" apart. Stitch around the pants, near the folded edge of the hem, leaving the area between the pins open. Remove pins. You have now created the casing for the waist elastic.

mark casing with pins

Install Elastic

Cut 3/4" elastic 3 - 4" shorter than your waist measurement (depending on how snug you would like them to be). If the elastic is very stiff, cut it closer to your waist measurement. Make a small mark on each end of the elastic, on the same side. This way, if the elastic turns while you are pulling it through the casing, you will know. Run a safety pin through one end of the elastic. Use the safety pin to feed the elastic through the casing. Feeling under the fabric, push the safety pin with one hand and pull it with the other until the elastic is all the way around the casing. Be careful that the second end of the elastic is not pulled up into the casing.

pull elastic through pajama casing

Finish The Waistband

Once the elastic is through the casing, stitch the ends together - be sure the markings on the elastic are still on the same side (see image above right). Adjust the gathers evenly around the waistband. Stitch the waistband opening casing closed. Optional: to prevent elastic from flipping inside the casing, "stitch in the ditch" at each side seam.

stitch waist elastic

finished elastic casing

Right: I made myself a pair that matches the pair the adorable little girl in the top photo is wearing. Very comfy!

Lesson 1: Create Pattern - Measure Method
Lesson 2: Create Pattern - Trace Method
Lesson 4: Add A Cuff

cuffed pajama pants pattern

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